Sahar Freemantle Millinery

Discuss race season and its value to millinery.

The racing carnival is big in Melbourne with the ‘Melbourne Cup’, the race that stops a Nation.  Ascot without the Royals.

Sahar Millinery Fascinator

It’s a massive contribution and an opportunity to make and showcase the larger, creative hats that don’t get worn at weddings. For those few days it gets the public actively engaged and interested in the world of millinery.

Pokadot 50s Style Hatinator

Can you explain the transformation that happens within the catalyst of a hat?

The right hat flatters the wearer, often adds height, and finishes an outfit. What makes ‘the right hat’? – Well, it’s a combination of wearers colour, and a shape which suits their face, frame, and outfit It’s incredible to see someone put on the right hat and instantly transform – they stand taller and with more confidence.

Black Butterfly Saucer

Take two hats that show this transformation and why?

This is different for everyone! The ‘right hat’ is personal and subjective – both from a physical sense of it suiting ones colouring and face, but also in terms of suiting ones personality.

Large Knotted Beach Wear Faux Turban

– a hat which is just right for someone may but far too subdued and small for someone else and far too extravagant and showy for another.

Large Floral Headpiece For the Bride

When did you decide to specialize in millinery?

When I stared at the hats in the boot of a car once. Right after graduating – a couple of Scottish milliners were putting on a show and I was helping them – I saw the hats and a little voice went ‘this is it’

Baby-Bie Fedora Hat-with Pheasant Feathers

Expand on your comment, “When excellent craftmanship merges with playful curiosity, what emerges is a fresh embodiment of British eccentricity.

There is excellent craftsmanship, and there is playful experimentation. One cares about the outcome, finesse, and perfection. The other cares of creativity, having fun, making a mess and being curious about ‘what happens if…?’. If we only follow tradition then we keep creating the same things. If we only play then we never achieve excellence. Britain is known for it’s high standard of craft, and it’s also known for it’s innovation, celebrating eccentricity, and not liking to be told what to do.

Millinery is one example of a high-end craft that keeps inventing itself newly – whether that is fashions changing over the decades, or new materials being introduced.

Red Fedora Hat with Pheasant Feathers

Why do you think millinery has remained so popular in the UK?

The reinvention and moving with fashion is part of it, and every so often (just often enough) there will be a celebrity or TV show who champions hats and makes them cool again – whether that’s Grace Jones, Isabella Blow, Pharrell or Lady Gaga, or – makes them popular again, like Sarah Jessica Parker or the Duchess of Cambridge, or – makes them fun again, like Boy George, Slash, or Jamiroquai, (note, whether I’ve categorised these as ‘cool’ ‘popular’ or ‘fun’ is only my opinion – feel free to disagree!)

TV shows like Peaky Blinders, Downton Abbey and Sex in the City do the same thing.

You trained in Edinburgh College of Art in Performance Costume.  Give us a tiny peek into your work for Downton Abbey.

Anna Robbins, who I studied with at Edinburgh – was always a stickler for perfect work and historical accuracy even as a student, so I knew when she got the job as costume designer for Downton Abbey, that every part of every costume would need to be historically accurate to the year, and everything done meticulously by hand. There are, however, some tweaks that need to be made for screen. They used my upturned brim shapes instead of the ‘bell’ type cloche, because you need to see the face, and most hats needed a groove at the back, to allow for wigs.

Powder Blue Lady Mary Cloche

Tell us about your hats with co-ordinating covid face masks.

The main ways I’ve done this is by making matching headbands and masks, or creating the hatband on a trilby hat in the same fabric as the mask. Occasionally if there was a wedding it was a case of creating a mask in the same colours as the wedding hat.

Now that you are out of Lockdown in London.  Have you restarted, The Milliners Drawing Room?

Not yet, because my studio management are still being very Covid cautious. Hopefully very soon though! I have been modelling in hats as a guest for other fashion illustration events though – mostly online.

What happens in the drawing room?

The models are dressed in fabulous, showy attire, each a different theme every month, and artists of all abilities attend, and draw!

How can people join in?

Anyone can join, but best to book in advance by emailing me, you can follow @millinersdrawingroom

Tell us one story that has delighted you from one of the sessions.

Honestly the best thing is when I see and hear everyone being super encouraging of each other – we get Vivienne Westwoods illustrator and beginners and everyone is delighting in each others work. I’m delighted to say that didn’t just happen in one session – it happens in all of them.

You also hire hats.  What needs to be different with these hats, so that they fit many different heads?

Actually, most of my hats – which are the ones that get hired – fit most heads, because they’re held with elastic or alice band and are one size fits all. The main difference is to keep them one colour, so they go with more outfits, because if they’re too niche they will go with less. That’s why the most exciting hats are the ones made bespoke for the client because they are less generic.

Navy Blue Fascinator

Royals are big hat wearers; do they keep the craft alive?

They do, and it’s nice to see with each new royal that comes along their own style and hat choice. It’s a shame that Meghan Markle stepped down, as I think she infused some freshness with her choice of millinery. It’s always great to see The Queens bold colour choices for Ascot!

You are a member of QEST.  Discuss your membership

Yes, I was awarded a scholarship to train under Ian Bennet, so there is the training which is funded, plus there are many other events which have been on hold and are now opening up – it seems my first event will be at Buckingham Palace, which is exciting!

I’m yet to experience the full value but so far the QEST team have been very supportive indeed. It’s a very prestigious award and just to know they felt I was worth investing into was a huge success. I will soon start my training with Ian Bennet, and going to the events.

It’s really great that the Royal Family and the Royal Warrant holders place such value on high quality crafts in the UK, that they have formed this charity and actively support craftspeople. Any form of creativity is good for society, and craft is creativity with deliberate practice and precision. QEST helps British craft thrive.

I receive the QEST magazine, which showcases really inspiring QEST alumni. It’s great to see what they’re up to and see photos of their work as it’s always inspiring to see other makers making it. There are events such as the Christmas drinks at Buckingham Palace, in which I get to mingle with other alumni, and stands at various craft events, such as Material Masters, coming to Collect, Somerset House, February 2022.

What is you advise to others both men and women, why they should enjoy the treat of a visit to a milliner?

Navy Blue Beret with Veiling

Ooh!, it’s such a treat because you get to try on whichever hats you want, then start the creative process of finding your favourite bits of each hat, and having one made for any outfit. We have fun, I’m serious with my craft, but it’s definitely not a serious process!

Red Large Knotted Vintage Style Faux Turban

Can we finish with …

Portrait of A Milliner

 

Contact details:

Sahar Feemantle

sahar@saharmillinery.co.uk

07891041378

insta: @saharmillinery

www.saharmillinery.co.uk

Sahar Freemantle, London, UK

Interview by Deborah Blakeley, November 2021

 

 

Discuss race season and its value to millinery.

The racing carnival is big in Melbourne with the Melbourne Cup, the race that stops a nation.  Ascot without the Royals.

Sahar-Millinery-Fascinator-Ladies-Hat17

It’s a massive contribution and an opportunity to make and showcase the larger, creative hats that don’t get worn at weddings. For those few days it gets the public actively engaged and interested in the world of millinery.

Polkadot 50s Style Hatinator

Can you explain the transformation that happens within the catalyst of a hat?

The right hat flatters the wearer, often adds height, and finishes an outfit. What makes ‘the right hat’? – Well, it’s a combination of wearers colour, and a shape which suits their face, frame, and outfit It’s incredible to see someone put on the right hat and instantly transform – they stand taller and with more confidence.

Black-Butterfly-Saucer-Fascinator-Hat

Take two hats that show this transformation and why?

This is different for everyone! The ‘right hat’ is personal and subjective – both from a physical sense of it suiting ones colouring and face, but also in terms of suiting ones personality.

 

– a hat which is just right for someone may but far too subdued and small for someone else and far too extravagant and showy for another.

When did you decide to specialize in millinery?

When I stared at the hats in the boot of a car once. Right after graduating – a couple of Scottish milliners were putting on a show and I was helping them – I saw the hats and a little voice went ‘this is it’

Expand on your comment, “When excellent craftmanship merges with playful curiosity, what emerges is a fresh embodiment of British eccentricity.

There is excellent craftsmanship, and there is playful experimentation. One cares about the outcome, finesse, and perfection. The other cares of creativity, having fun, making a mess and being curious about ‘what happens if…?’. If we only follow tradition then we keep creating the same things. If we only play then we never achieve excellence. Britain is known for it’s high standard of craft, and it’s also known for it’s innovation, celebrating eccentricity, and not liking to be told what to do.

Millinery is one example of a high-end craft that keeps inventing itself newly – whether that is fashions changing over the decades, or new materials being introduced.

Why do you think millinery has remained so popular in the UK?

The reinvention and moving with fashion is part of it, and every so often (just often enough) there will be a celebrity or TV show who champions hats and makes them cool again – whether that’s Grace Jones, Isabella Blow, Pharrell or Lady Gaga, or – makes them popular again, like Sarah Jessica Parker or the Duchess of Cambridge, or – makes them fun again, like Boy George, Slash, or Jamiroquai, (note, whether I’ve categorised these as ‘cool’ ‘popular’ or ‘fun’ is only my opinion – feel free to disagree!)

TV shows like Peaky Blinders, Downton Abbey and Sex in the City do the same thing.

You trained in Edinburgh College of Art in Performance Costume.  Give us a tiny peek into your work for Downton Abbey.

Anna Robbins, who I studied with at Edinburgh – was always a stickler for perfect work and historical accuracy even as a student, so I knew when she got the job as costume designer for Downton Abbey, that every part of every costume would need to be historically accurate to the year, and everything done meticulously by hand. There are, however, some tweaks that need to be made for screen. They used my upturned brim shapes instead of the ‘bell’ type cloche, because you need to see the face, and most hats needed a groove at the back, to allow for wigs.

Tell us about your hats with co-ordinating covid face masks.

The main ways I’ve done this is by making matching headbands and masks, or creating the hatband on a trilby hat in the same fabric as the mask. Occasionally if there was a wedding it was a case of creating a mask in the same colours as the wedding hat.

Now that you are out of Lockdown in London.  Have you restarted, The Milliners Drawing Room?

Not yet, because my studio management are still being very Covid cautious. Hopefully very soon though! I have been modelling in hats as a guest for other fashion illustration events though – mostly online.

What happens in the drawing room?

The models are dressed in fabulous, showy attire, each a different theme every month, and artists of all abilities attend, and draw!

How can people join in?

Anyone can join, but best to book in advance by emailing me, you can follow @millinersdrawingroom

Tell us one story that has delighted you from one of the sessions.

Honestly the best thing is when I see and hear everyone being super encouraging of each other – we get Vivienne Westwoods illustrator and beginners and everyone is delighting in each others work. I’m delighted to say that didn’t just happen in one session – it happens in all of them.

You also hire hats.  What needs to be different with these hats, so that they fit many different heads?

Actually, most of my hats – which are the ones that get hired – fit most heads, because they’re held with elastic or alice band and are one size fits all. The main difference is to keep them one colour, so they go with more outfits, because if they’re too niche they will go with less. That’s why the most exciting hats are the ones made bespoke for the client because they are less generic.

Royals are big hat wearers; do they keep the craft alive?

They do, and it’s nice to see with each new royal that comes along their own style and hat choice. It’s a shame that Meghan Markle stepped down, as I think she infused some freshness with her choice of millinery. It’s always great to see The Queens bold colour choices for Ascot!

You are a member of QEST.  Discuss your membership

Yes, I was awarded a scholarship to train under Ian Bennet, so there is the training which is funded, plus there are many other events which have been on hold and are now opening up – it seems my first event will be at Buckingham Palace, which is exciting!

I’m yet to experience the full value but so far the QEST team have been very supportive indeed. It’s a very prestigious award and just to know they felt I was worth investing into was a huge success. I will soon start my training with Ian Bennet, and going to the events.

It’s really great that the Royal Family and the Royal Warrant holders place such value on high quality crafts in the UK, that they have formed this charity and actively support craftspeople. Any form of creativity is good for society, and craft is creativity with deliberate practice and precision. QEST helps British craft thrive.

I receive the QEST magazine, which showcases really inspiring QEST alumni. It’s great to see what they’re up to and see photos of their work as it’s always inspiring to see other makers making it. There are events such as the Christmas drinks at Buckingham Palace, in which I get to mingle with other alumni, and stands at various craft events, such as Material Masters, coming to Collect, Somerset House, February 2022.

What is you advise to others both men and women, why they should enjoy the treat of a visit to a milliner?

Ooh!, it’s such a treat because you get to try on whichever hats you want, then start the creative process of finding your favourite bits of each hat, and having one made for any outfit. We have fun, I’m serious with my craft, but it’s definitely not a serious process!

Can we finish with …

Portrait of A Milliner

 

Contact details:

Sahra Feemantle

sahar@saharmillinery.co.uk

07891041378

insta: @saharmillinery

www.saharmillinery.co.uk

Sahra Freemantle, London, UK

Interview by Deborah Blakeley, November 2021